The instructions call for the mounting plate to be fixed 7 and 3/4 inches from the edge of the plate. I drew a line there for ease of alignment.

Just peel back the paper cover as the mount already has  tape stuck onto it. With the holes to the rear stick it to the channel. The front edge must be aligned to the channel face and to the left of the line.          Like this.

I encountered a little problem here.

In the past I have used car polish to remove numerous pencil lines and although I thought that I had given the channel a good clean it just would not stick very well. After another good clean with solvent I used replacement double-sided sticky tape and now all is well.

The phenolic post is fixed using the fence bolts but don't forget to add the plastic washers as shown or the carriage will bind.

If you decided that you want to drill and tap two holes in the channel for mounting then use the phenolic mount only as a marking and drilling template as its not required. Use the smaller supplied L-bracket to fix to the post.

At this point I left the fixing screws un-tightened to allow for final adjustment.

Two supplied allen screws pass through the holes in  the sliding scale back-plate and into the threaded holes on the mount. Attach the track onto the L-shaped bracket and check that nothing binds or twists when moving the carriage before finally tightening all the screws up.

I prepared some pine for the test cuts.

I did make a checker cut in some scrap to ensure that the bit was actually 1/2" as there can be some cutter diameter tolerance.

Yep, hurray! Spot on!!

So with the first piece locked into the cutting position I tracked the carriage so that the cutter was just in contact with the left edge of the work. This is the zero setting.

Without moving the carriage I set the display to zero. I know the spiral is half inch but I chose the fractional inch display as it works to a 1/64" tolerance which is less exacting to track to than the decimal displays.

I tracked the carriage until the display read 1/2" and made the first cut. As with all digital displays you have to take care and "sneak up" to the position as it easy to shoot past when turning the crank handle. It does help if you have a very smooth running carriage on your WoodRat.

These  spiral cutters really do work well and leave a very clean finish. The long length improves the view of the work and the spiral  gives a continuous shearing cut which is very smooth.

For carbide these bits are extra-ordinarily sharp and need to be handled with care!

The two pieces came together in a very satisfactory way with no "joggle". The 1/64" tolerance with the fractional display worked to my advantage and the fit was just as I like it. The two sides gently slipped together: not too tight and with just the finest of gaps for glue.

Admittedly the joint was not very wide however this photo shows that there was no compound cutting error over two inches.

An excellent fit and I feel very confident that I will get an equal result when cutting finer fingers with a smaller router bit.

Using the 1/2" bit I found that the maximum width of board that I could work on is 7 1/4 inches. Total travel will be slightly more when a smaller diameter bit is used. This is of course limited by the sliding scale track length.

It can even be used to set the cutting depth of parts of a complicated router bit.

In fact the mount holes on both the base plate or the track permit all sorts of "add-on" bits for special applications only limited by your imagination.