See photographs for details of parts and assembly.
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The micro adjuster is made from 6mm dia by 1 mm pitch treaded bar (i.e the standard pitch for 6mm threads). The advantage in using this thread form is that one full turn of the thread advances or retracts the adjuster by 1 mm. I used a 55 mm length for the adjuster on the long bar and 60 mm length for the adjuster on the short bar. Spring length is 30 mm in both cases. And as you can see from the photos a 25mm diameter washer has been marked with 10 equi-spaced little paint blobs. You can eyeball the position of the paint blobs as you turn the adjuster in order to give you adjustments of 0.1 mm (0.004”) or smaller. The spring keeps everything in tension thus eliminating any backlash in the adjuster. The other washers in use are 13 mm diameter.
6 mm nuts need to be welded vertically on to the head of the stop bolt and the outer end of the short bar stop brackets. When welding the nuts on to the short bar ensure that the axis of the threaded hole in the nut runs parallel with east west axis of the WoodRat chassis. The outer face of the nut needs to be flush with the vertical edge of what ever it is being welded to.
See photographs for details of parts and assembly.
Fine Adjustment of Stops using a Feeler Gauge.
It is not necessary to make a micro adjuster in order to finely adjust the amount of carriage travel on the bar type stops. A mechanics feeler gauge will do just the job just as well. This is the only method for fine tuning the positions of the “L” section stops. Here is how it is done.
Lets say the stops have been set, a test cut has been made and in order to achieve a correct cut the carriage needs to move an extra 0.1 mm to the left and its movement to the right reduced by 0.3 mm.
1. Rack the carriage to the left until it hits the stop.
2. Loosen the securing nuts holding the stop to the T slot in the chassis.
3. Move stop left.
4. Insert 0.1 mm feeler between the stop and the end of the carriage.
5. Move the stop to the right until it traps the feeler between itself and the end of the carriage.
6. Retighten the securing nuts.
7. Remove the feeler.
8. Move carriage left to take up the gap.
9. Left stop is now set at +0.l mm from its original setting.
1. Rack the carriage to the right.
2. Insert a 0.3 mm feeler between the stop and the end of the carriage.
3. Continue moving the carriage until it traps the feeler between itself and the stop.
4. Remove the feeler.
5. Loosen the securing nuts holding the stop to the T slot in the chassis.
6. Move stop left until it hits the end of the chassis to take up the gap.
7. Retighten the securing nuts.
8. Right stop is now set at -0.3 mm from its original setting.
Thanks Leon for your hard work and sharing your idea with us.
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