Mods 8 Page 4
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This stop started off life being made from 30 mm lengths of 35 mm leg by 1.5 mm thick L section aluminium extrusion. However, the forces exerted by the carriage when it hit the stop caused them to twist. So to give them torsional stability I had to laminate the extrusion with 25 mm by 6 mm thick steel bar to the base and 20 mm x 2mm thick aluminium strip to the side – see photograph. (Well its what I had laying around the garage and it worked.)
The stop pin is made from a 10 mm length of 10 mm diameter brass bar drilled and tapped M5. Into which is threaded an M5 screw of 17 mm length.
The carriage is drilled and tapped M5 in two places. 270 mm from the left hand end and 185 mm from the right hand end; thus giving a choice of positions for the stop.
The attaching bolts are M8 by 25 mm long
If you use wing nuts to attach the bar stops you will find that a wing of the nut is liable to protrude beyond the chassis. This will stop the carriage moving when the under-hang of a jaw hits it. This is easily prevented by removing the stop and turning the bolt head by one or two flats. To determine the bolts best position that ensures the wings of the nut lie along the length of the chassis when the nut is tightened. Having determined the best position for the bolt head, paint mark its outermost flat. This way you can always return the bolt head to the same position every time you attach the stop to the chassis.
Now you might find that when you are attaching the bar stops to the chassis, a jaw or work piece is in the way such that you are unable to tighten a wing nut. If this is the case then use a plain nut and tighten it with a spanner or socket.
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